July 14, 2011

We left Normandy early on the 13th for the two-hour train trip back to Paris, then connected by metro to the TGV train to Annecy, in the Haute Savoie, almost to Switzerland.

The TGV or fast train, the marvel of the French National Railroads, makes the journey from Paris to Marseilles, about four hundred miles, in just three hours.

Our trip, from Paris to Annecy, with a few stops, just under three hundred miles, also took three hours. The drive would have taken at least six, along winding mountain roads.

We used our French Rail passes, bought from Rail Europe, where we can travel any four days in a month in France, any distance on those days. We got a discount by buying a “saver pass”because we are traveling together and the rail pass ends up being much more economical than buying individual tickets.

The train is also less expensive than driving, when you take into consideration the cost of renting a car, gas, toll roads and parking. And in addition to being economical and fun, taking the train is much more “green” than driving.

As we sped across France, we sat back in plush seats facing each other across a table, chatting, laughing and enjoying the beauty of the countryside as if unfolded in front of us.

We passed bright fields of sunflowers, turning toward the sun, and rural cottages with tidy gardens and laundry flapping in the breeze. We watched the sky change as rain clouds danced across it and majestic mountains came into view.

We walked to the restaurant car for breakfast, then wandered back and snuggled back into our seats to read. As the train rocked and rattled along—we both drifted off for a delicious nap.

It began to rain and I was so grateful to be cozy in the train and not trying to figure out rural round abouts and French road signs in a tiny rental car.

When we arrived in Annecy, the rain was coming down hard and we did break down and take a taxi to our hotel, which is four kilometers from Annecy, in Veyrier du Lac, on the other side of the lake.

Annecy is renowned, not only for its pristine mountain lake, but for the excellent cycling opportunities in the area. We plan to rent bicycles for a week of riding each day, returning back to our hotel each evening. My partner Landon looks forward to the challenging rides straight up mountain passes, some of which have been included in the Tour de France. I am excited about riding around the lake, about 38 km or 25 miles, of relatively flat terrain and trying out some of the less difficult mountain rides.

Our two star, family run hotel, The Acacias Bellevue Hotel and Restaurant, which I found on the Internet, is quaint and clean, with a friendly staff. We chose to do the “demi-pension” option, which means that we have breakfast and dinner each day at the hotel.

Our tiny room has a balcony with an expansive view of the lake. We’re headed down for a swim and looking forward to beginning our bicycling adventure in this beautiful region.

For all the information on rail passes, visit RailEurope.com

More in this series:

• Part 3: England to France (subways, trains, and still no automobiles)
• Part 2: England: Trains, Subways, Bicycles, Feet – and No Automobiles
• Part 1: London and the Advantages of Packing Light

Diane Covington 2011

After our refreshing stay at Chateau de Berne, we followed the winding road down toward the coast, past vineyards and pine trees, with dramatic views around every bend.

We stopped at Thoronet Abbey a well-preserved 11th century abbey set in a pine forest. The acoustics in the chapel are said to be the second best in the world and our guide sang some sweet notes for us to experience the music echoing off the high walls.

Then on to Saint Tropez, and a stop at the renowned Chateau de la Messardière Hotel for lunch.  As we sipped local chilled rose wine with our sumptuous courses, we admired the view of the Bay of Saint Tropez sparkling through the pines and gardens of their extensive grounds (http://messardiere.com).

Though Saint Tropez is now famous for all the celebrities who frequent it, many with giant yachts, it is still a quaint fishing village at heart.  After lunch, we wandered along the colorful alleyways, appreciating the peace of ‘off season’ September, yet basking in the warm sun reminiscent of summer.

The distance from Saint Tropez to Sainte Maxime, on the other side of the bay, is short, but in summer can take an hour or more.  In September, luckily, it was shorter than that, but when we spotted our hotel, Le Beauvallon, sitting atop a knoll with a wide lawn sloping down to the sea, we were excited to call it our next home.

This ‘Belle Époque’ Hotel, built in 1914, has the elegance and grace of those earlier days, contrasted with a glamorous up-to-date décor.  Over 15 acres of landscaped gardens create a sense of space and tranquility.

From the balcony of our luxurious room, we breathed in the fresh sea air and watched sailboats gliding by, as the sky turned pink behind the clouds with the setting sun.  Later, the lights of Saint Tropez looked like jewels in a treasure chest across the bay.

The romantic dining room, with damask linens and candlelight complemented the Mediterranean/International menu and fine local wines.

Breakfast on the terrace the next morning, a swim in the pool and a stroll along the sand at the beach club, followed by some relaxation under an umbrella on a chaise lounge-this is the life!  And in the late September, the sea is still warm enough for a refreshing plunge.

This is the kind of hotel where you want to settle in and stay for weeks.  But even our short stay refreshed mind, body and spirit, making us ready for the next adventure just around the bend in Provence.

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For more information about this area of ‘Undiscovered Provence’, check out these websites:
www.tourismevar.com
www.var-prestige.com

We left the amazing Terre Blanche and continued along the winding roads in the hills above the Mediterranean toward our next destination, Le Chateau de Berne, a winery and 18th century chateau and inn. On the way, we stopped for a coffee at Saint Endreol Golf Course, a lovely spot to golf or stay, but we wanted to keep going–we were excited to experience the Chateau de Berne.

We also stopped at Chateau Sainte Roseline to taste some Rosé wine and visit their chapel, well worth the stop. Then just down the road, we entered the over 1500 acre estate of Chateau de Berne . This very successful vineyard and inn feels like you’re staying in a country house of a generous and well off friend. Like Terre Blanche, the quiet and peace of the place is palpable and refreshing. The rooms are upstairs from the restaurant and it feels like you’re home and running downstairs for dinner. Their website calls it an ‘intimate country residence’ and they have it right.

We relaxed in our comfortable room before dinner and then headed down the stairs for a memorable evening. Our dinner menu was paired with wines from their own vineyard, white, rosé and red. We started with mixed smoked salmon, parma ham, parmesan cheese and tender greens. Our main course was a slow roasted lamb cannelloni with lamb chop. Then came a selection of cheeses and then dessert, a tasting plate including crème brulée and other luscious bite-sized treats. The fine damask tablecloth and napkins in a soft peach color on the table, the fresh flowers on the table and throughout the rooms and the excellent service made us feel very taken care of and wanting to stay as long as possible.

The next morning, we swam in the heated pool as the sun came up and turned the clouds and sky a rosy pink. Breakfast of fresh croissants and fruit and a lazy morning at the inn prepared us for our journey back down to the coast to rediscover Saint Tropez and Sainte Maxime, off season. Stay tuned for the next update and more adventures.

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For more information about this area of ‘Undiscovered Provence’, check out these websites:
www.tourismevar.com
www.var-prestige.com

I’ve traveled to France for over 25 years and even lived in France in 2000 for almost a year. I have a passion for the culture and the language that is both mysterious and fulfilling. I’m always looking for new places to explore or new ways to explore old places.

So when I heard about the properties that I’m going to share with you here, I just had to go and check them out. The idea of undiscovered Provence down back roads, well, it was too good. And it turned out to be even better than I could have imagined. But then, I’m prejudiced. But even so, these fall into the category of the rare and the magical, so stay tuned.

We arrived in late September, 2008, on the Fall Equinox, at the Terre Blanche Four Seasons Resort (http://www.fourseasons.com/provence/) in the hills behind Cannes, France. After landing in Nice, it was a short drive along winding roads up into the hills, leaving behind the crowds of the coast.

The Terre Blanche feels like a little piece of Provencal heaven. When we arrived, tired from all our traveling, the staff met us with towels that smelled of rosemary and thyme. There is an utter quiet and peace to the place, a chance to go back in time and to feel what France has to offer, ‘l’art de vivre’, the art of living at a slower pace and of really enjoying each moment.

The property is set up like a small village, with individual suites looking across the valley to the perched village of Fayence. Each suite has a sitting room and courtyard, spacious bedroom and bath, with comfortable beds, fine linens and cozy comforters. French doors open out to the terrace from the living room and bedroom. A massage at the spa, then a soak in the heated pool and jacuzzi, helped with jet lag. The landscaping is designed with aromatic plants–lavender, rosemary, and thyme, among others, and their scents filled the fresh air as we walked back to our cottage.

At Terre Blanche, you can play golf at one of two 18 hole courses, swim, visit the nearby villages or just kick back and relax at the pool or on your private terrace. There are five restaurants to choose from, and the Faventia, the main restaurant, has one MIchelin star. Executive Chef Philippe Jourdin creates fresh, contemporary Mediterranean menus, complemented by both local and international wines. Our three course dinner at Faventia included a first course of Zucchini flowers stuffed with Provencal flavors and a baby leaves salad. Our second course was rolled fillet of sole with mashed zucchini, olives bitter juice, tomato petals and rocket leaves. And for dessert, we enjoyed light cream of vanilla and fresh raspberries, rose ice cream and a soft biscuit in a crispy shell of Provencal almonds.

The presentation of each course was elegant and beautiful and we had to admire the plate before beginning to savor the creations. With the first course, we took the suggestion of the chef and enjoyed a Chassagne Montrachet Domaine Borgeot, 1995, a crisp white wine. And for the second course, Aloxe Corton Domaine Rapet, 2004, a full red wine. The restaurant lived up to its one Michelin Star, with both the food and the service and our dinner became a special part of the Terre Blanche memories. I recommend staying at least two days, to really slow down and savor the experience of this special resort and the area.

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For more information about this area of ‘Undiscovered Provence’, check out these websites:
www.tourismevar.com
www.var-prestige.com