In these tough and challenging economic times, it may seem rather frivolous to think about going to an extravagant holiday celebration such as the Bracebridge dinner in Yosemite Valley. And yet, this once in a lifetime opportunity could be a Christmas gift that you and a loved one could cherish, rather than a thing that could just take up space in your house and be forgotten by New Year’s. You’d be purchasing an experience, creating a memory, and that can be priceless.

I went to the Bracebridge dinner in 2006 and will never forget it. I had heard about it for decades and wondered what all the hoopla was about. Well, the buzz was well deserved. The seven-course feast was scrumptious and the performance, spanning four hours, was professional and riveting. One minute I was laughing hysterically at the antics of the jester, the next moved to tears at a rendition of Ave Maria or O Holy Night.

In the heart of Yosemite Valley, the historic Ahwahnee Hotel, where the Bracebridge is performed, sits right up against the three thousand foot granite cliffs, its rock façade blending with the massive stones behind it. The Ahwahnee, the ‘Grand Dame’ hotel of the park, was built in 1927 for a sum of 1.5 million dollars. The elegant dining room, with giant sugar pine beams criss-crossing the 34-foot ceilings, can feel like a scene from a fairy tale.

The Ahwahnee dining room becomes the medieval great hall of fictional Squire Bracebridge, who comes to life from the pages of ‘Old Christmas’, a story penned in 1819 by Washington Irving, (who also wrote ‘Rip Van Winkle’ and ‘the Legend of Sleepy Hollow’). The jovial Squire devotes himself to the preservation of the old English hospitality of ‘making merry’ and spares no expense when he invites his family and friends to feast with him on Christmas Day, 1718. If you’re attending the Bracebridge dinner, that’s you.

The fanfare of trumpets heralds the beginning of the feast. Women in jeweled velvet gowns and men in tights and feathered caps escort you to your tables inside the candlelit hall. Fresh pine boughs and colorful banners decorate the hall where more than 100 players sing and dance for your enjoyment.

The feast, a seven-course affair that is a delight for all the senses, has kept the same order and substance since the first dinner in 1927. Serving folk present the four main courses–fish, poultry, beef and pudding –on elaborate platters, for the Squire’s approval. Singers add their voices to these processions, minstrels wander and jesters entertain, adding to the festive atmosphere.

The sounding of chimes signals the presentation of each course. Within minutes, over 350 guests have been served by a hundred servers with a hundred more working behind the scenes in the kitchen.

The celebration, which began in 1927, has been performed annually, except during World War II. Famed photographer Ansel Adams wrote the rhymed four-beat cadence of the characters’ lines and chose fine music such as “The Coventry Carol” and “O Holy Night”. Adams also played the part of the ‘Lord of Misrule’(the jester) for many years. The program he created, of carols, music and Renaissance rituals, is still used today.

What was once just a Christmas Day performance, has grown to eight performances a year. Tickets used to be so hard to come by that a lottery system, now discontinued, was in effect for over 25 years. The program does sell out, usually on ‘Christmas Eve, but there are plenty of spaces on other evenings. The squire now “Bids ye welcome to Bracebridge Hall” for those who would like to celebrate with him.

In the words of Director Andrea Fulton: “the Bracebridge represents a Christmas that never was, but a Christmas that lives in everyone’s hearts.”

To balance out your winter feasting, take advantage of the full schedule of daily activities in the valley, most of them free, open to park visitors. Or choose from the many different levels of winter sports activities for all ages. (See box for details.) The park keeps the roads clear, but carry chains.

Whether for feasting or for outdoor fun, the majesty of Yosemite in winter will transport you to an earlier time and place, full of wonder and magic. And the Ahwahnee hotel will add her elegant and romantic welcome. That might be just the ticket for this Christmas after all.

Winter activities in Yosemite National Park:

• Badger Pass Winter Sports: From the valley, catch the free shuttle up to Badger Pass Ski Area, for snowboarding, downhill and cross-country skiing. Or enjoy a free snowshoe walk with a Park Ranger, daily at 10:30am. (You can rent snowshoes for $5.)
• Valley sports and fun: pretend you’re an Olympic skater at the Curry Village Ice skating rink. Or get a head start on the hiking season this year. Depending on the level of snowfall, many valley hiking trails may be open.
• Ranger Walks and talks: Each day in the valley, choose among various indoor talks or valley walks, even ‘Wee Wild Ones’ for children under six. Or catch an evening Ranger program at Yosemite Lodge. Check the website for all current information.
• Museums and gallery: Browse through the Visitor’s Center, Ansel Adams Gallery or the Indian Cultural Museum or watch the half-hour film, ‘The Spirit of Yosemite’.

Diane Covington 2008