Archive for Travelogues – Page 2

Finding Maluhia in Kauai

Saturday, January 16th, 2010

By Christine Scioli

The otherworldly Napali Coast of Kauai, HawaiiKauai is the oldest and most remote of the major Hawaiian Islands. It is where Pele, the goddess of fire, fell in love with the mortal prince Lohi’au, and where the mythical Menehune people live in the hidden forests and valleys above the taro fields. It was the last holdout when King Kamehameha sought to unify (a/k/a take over) the islands, and I think it is the most magical and serene place on earth.

The north shore of Kauai is home to an eclectic mix of folks; celebrities and vacation homeowners from every state on the mainland, tourists who aren’t looking for high-rise hotels or condos (no building on Kauai can be taller than a coconut tree), and locals who choose the ultimate laid-back lifestyle to surf and coexist with the land of aloha spirit. It is here, in Hanalei town, I meet an artist who paints with his mouth. I have been walking the beaches of Hanalei and riding waves by the iconic pier for days. I am looking for a way to slow down deeply after a year that hardly bears recollection. Na ke Akua e ha ‘awi mai I ka maluhia … God grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change …

Completely disabled, he is not physically a pretty site, however, he is anything but a sad man. He tells me God closed one door when he was paralyzed after a car accident in 2002, but opened another. What might sound cliché is his simple reality. He tells me he did not take his art seriously enough and spent most of the time surfing, but that has all changed now. He earns his living with his mouth – not by songs or words, which seems a profound irony. His name is Moses and I find its spiritual significance interesting: his art astounding. His painting of the Hanalei pier is a fusion of light and sea. It would be very difficult for Moses to go out there on the pier now, to see the sunlight and clouds play together in the shadow of the vast Napali cliffs. Perhaps his mind, his eyes, his heart and at final turn his mouth, have bonded with spirit of Lohi’au, because I can see so much fire and passion for this island in his painting. Most importantly, it is filled with both the aloha and maluhia he has found in his life and art.

I am home now and it is grey, but I am not. My resolution for the new year is working well, something I would have formerly thought impossible. Each morning I look at the painting Moses created with his mouth and find inspiration in his reflection of a place I was honored to experience. I move more slowly, savoring a bit more of the moment: my life, my love, my family, my work, my friends. I vow to chuck away just one stupid and needless stress each day and move one more tiny step toward maluhia. I think it is working.

Mahalo Moses!

Visit the online home of Moses Hamilton for more of his story and artwork

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Copyright 2010 Christine Scioli All Rights Reserved

Christine Scioli owns Zan Media, a film and video production company, http://www.zanmedia.com

Article Source:http://www.articlesbase.com/exotic-locations-articles/finding-maluhia-in-kauai-1702522.html

A Traveler Special Feature by Bev Isla

Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National ParkThe sunlight dims behind our narrow red, white and blue paddle banca as the looming darkness ahead draws nearer.  The smell of wet seaweed washes ashore from the ocean and the sounds of water dripping from amongst the cave ceiling surrounds us. The ambiance fills with curiosity as our group submerges into the unknown environment of the intertwining rocky tunnels within. At 8.2 kilometers, the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park in the Philippines is the longest navigable underground river in the world.  Nominated as one of the World’s Seven Wonders, this river flows underneath a magnificent limestone mountain landscape that exits directly into the South China Sea. However, this cave system only allow boat tours access to the first 4 km before turning back due to low rock ceilings. According to the guide, it was in 1971 that Americans first explored this cave.

As our banca with outriggers crawls further in, the only light available comes from one large flashlight held by the person sitting in front – in this case, me. I hold the flashlight and my camera with my foot resting on the boat’s edge. Perhaps having control of the light and my camera for evidence (just in case) would keep my restlessness down. Tour boats resemble that of narrow canoes but the side edges are close to the water’s surface level. How easy it looks for the boats to submerge in water. Our guide navigates from the back of the boat as other tour boats glide past going the opposite direction. Its a good sign to see them coming back with smiles.

The low light conditions makes photography difficult. However, limited light sources also prevent large mosquitos (larger than I’ve ever before seen) from becoming too much of a nuisance. The brownish green waters’ depth lies between 10 to 29 feet deep, depending on the tides. In fact, the lower portions of the river is subject to tidal influences. During high tide periods, parts of the cave is actually underwater. The highest point in the entire cave is a 65 ft tall domed amphitheater above ground level which is never underwater. Our guide recommends against swimming in the area as it is too dark and potentially hazardous – a suggestion I will definitely not test.

A canoe awaits entry into the underground river parkAbove us parts of the rock ceilings boast hundreds of bats, too dark and too far up to see in detail. A few fly near the top but threaten no harm. The bats also do not react to the sound of loud voices. I discover this fact when I excitedly point out “ Look! Those are bats up there!” Their glowing eyes can be seen if you watch carefully. It can be a mesmerizing yet anxious and eerie moment to see creatures not common in city-life. As far as the guides are concerned, there are no crocodiles or sharks dwelling in the cave area. If there are other life forms living here, it probably would not be visible to visitors.

As the boat glices smoothly in the water, our guide describes the major rock formations passing by: “Just ahead to the right is a whitish smooth rock that resembles a woman.” Unique rock formations and boulders such as stalactites, stalagmites and large chambers align the cave walls. Sharp rock pillars also hang from overhead. The cave wall where rock meets water also exhibit marble-like material while others display a smooth lumpy texture. The flashlight holder must be quick at following the guides’ instructions of where to point in order for the shapes to be seen. Luckily, I heard no complaints from the back of our boat about my flashlight operations.

Smaller tunnel pathways and black hallow recesses lead deeper into the cave where visitors would have to duck should they choose to continue. It is at this point where our tour guide slows the canoe to turn around due to low ceilings, sharp twists and turns. To further proceed to the inner depths of the niches and tunnels before flowing out into the sea may require more skilled scuba divers. Although curiosity of the mystical environment beyond our turning point irk the group, the point of sunlight upon return bring about some relief.

Visitors can be assured lifejackets and hard hats are provided. Professional tour guides are very knowledgeable of the cave area and know exactly what and where everything is without the need for flashlights. Using mosquito repellent is recommended. The general registration fee to enter the park is 30 PHP (approx. $0.65 US). Visitors will need to obtain entry permits from the Park Information and Booking Office or Visitors Center at the Park itself. Cave entrance fees are 200 PHP (approx $4.25 US dollars) for individuals ages 21-60, 100 PHP for those ages 17-21, 75 PHP (approx. $2.13 US) for 13-16 year olds, and 50 PHP  for 6-12 year olds. For those that want commercial videos, 3000 PHP (approx $63.00 US) is the fee. Hours of operation begin at 8:30 am with 4:30 accomodating the last tour due to tide influences.

Photo credits: Bev Isla and iStockPhoto

Information:

The Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park is one of the most unspoiled natural beauty of the Philippines. It boasts a significant habitat for biodiversity conservation as it contains some of the most important forests in Asia. Considered a National Geological Monument, the global significance of the park is also inscribed in the World Heritage list.

For more details, go to www.puerto-undergroundriver.com
Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park Office
No. 11 National Highway, Junction 1
Brgy. San Miguel, Puerto Princesa City 5300, Palawan, Philippines
Tel: (048) 433-2409
Email: reservation [at] puerto-undergroundriver.com

Getting there:

Bahile is 81 KM (2 hours) from Puerto Princesa. Jeepneys or aircon shuttle vans can be taken. After registering at the park entrance, a 15 min pumpboat ride or 1 and a half hour hike then leads you to the underground river.

The Night the Stars Fell

Sunday, March 22nd, 2009

By Cecilia Worth

Leonid Meteor Shower: The Night the Stars Fell, a story by Cecilia WorthJust beyond the nose of my old Mazda, its faded green streaked with dried road salt, swayed a Colorado interstate sign that surely lied. The information on the sign, Route 25, matched the Route 25 printed on my map. But never in its wildest dreams could this road pass for a four-lane highway. Across land that might have been ironed flat, a ribbon of bleached asphalt stretched towards New Mexico, proof that parallel lines meet if you can see far enough. Except for snow-encrusted tumbleweeds knocked about by the wind, nothing moved over the endlessness of withered grass and ice. My travel guide, on which I depended as a baby on its mother, had betrayed me.

Only after months of meticulous planning had I set out on this solo trip across the United States. No matter how keen my enthusiasm for adventure, whenever I drove alone into unfamiliar territory something inside me insisted that I would not be seen again. I could never free myself from images of roads dwindling into impassable tracts, losing themselves in fog and gloom. Yesterday that nightmare took on credibility. As I crept over an icy pass into the Rocky Mountains, snow-plastered foothills thousands of feet high, I eyed two huge

Mainline Moving Vans slow-skating across each other’s lanes and knew one thing absolutely. I must abandon my northern route to California, my carefully woven safety net of yellow-markered road maps, detailed directions to every B&B, day-to-day itineraries. I must detour south through territory I had never researched.

Now, far beyond the frozen wasteland waiting to gobble me up hovered the outline of yet another mountain range. Cold seeped into the car. Only a mile back stood a small motel, an island of safety and warmth. Yet, wisdom – or maybe pure obstinacy – argued that my supplies included a full tank of gas, food and a sleeping bag, and that hunkering down in a motel would not get me to California. Latching on to the words less for reassurance than to fight panic, I spun the heater dial as high as it would go and drove onto the road.

Gusts slammed the car into a zig-zag course. Frozen puddles crackled beneath the tires. Snow encroached along the pavement’s edge until I seemed to be crunching across the plain itself. My fingers ached from their vice-grip on the steering wheel.

For hours, the land remained the same, the odometer’s changing digits my only proof of progress. When at last the road burrowed into the Sangre de Christo mountains, I pushed on, never stopping for fear the lack of motion would bring on paralysis. Snow berms towered above the car, the road’s surface packed firm as a ski trail.

By twilight, emerging into New Mexico’s winter-brown range land, I was a zombie, wanting only a roof and a bed. A sign, Casa del Gavilon, pointed down a rutted dirt lane that dipped into a grove of cottonwoods sheltering an adobe hacienda. Inside, darkly stained beams, fireplaces of hand-laid stones, and rugs in warm reds and blues created an immense comforting quiet.

“People don’t usually visit at this time of year,” said the grey-haired housekeeper, as she laid a newspaper next to a tureen of steaming soup, her movements unperturbed by the trials of daily life. Below a loosely

knitted brown cardigan that lapped across her ample frontage like a favorite blanket, her feet overflowed the embrace of squashed carpet slippers.  “I expect you’ve come for tonight’s meteor shower.”

The paper’s headlines took up half a page. Leonids hurtle by on annual visit. Unique meteor storm predicted. Thousands per hour. Rare event only once every thirty-three years. Best viewing after midnight. Why would I want to venture out into the cold and wind just when I had escaped? Oblivion was what I craved.

The housekeeper patted a yawn back into her mouth. “Most folks around here don’t get too excited about losing a good night’s sleep to see a bunch of shooting stars.”

Her indifference prodded something in me that rebelled against dullness. There was that curiosity again, that call of the wild. Thoughts of the moonless dark and the lonely waiting pressed me to reconsider. But to disregard this opportunity, and the circumstances that had brought me to it, would be almost sinful.

That evening I went to sleep early wearing all my clothes, including my boots. I knew that, when the alarm went off at midnight, if I even had to tie my shoelaces, I would never tear myself out of that warm, cozy bed.

So it was, with the silence of the old house hissing in my ears and my heart hammering, I tiptoed out to my car. The motor sounded like a dozen backhoes coming to life.

Headlights dim, I drove slowly through the dark until I was far out on the range. The strange world of late hours seemed alive with unseen eyes, stealth and menace.

I could scurry back to my warm bed and in the morning give myself credit for trying. Probably I would see nothing anyhow. The only human being for miles around foolish enough to be out in the middle of nowhere waiting for a miracle.

Cautiously, I backed the car off the road and down an incline, until the windshield slanted towards the sky, transforming my seat into an upholstered recliner. Above me the sky was as ordinary as a thousand other night skies, a blanket of darkness spattered with starlight, blending with the horizon. The prairie grass rustled and the wind moaned, finding its way into the car. An ordinary night.

Then it happened. Off to the left, a globe of yellow fire burst out of the darkness and shot across the sky, trailing behind it a swath of white light longer and wider than any banner I had ever seen. Before I could exhale, the globe exploded, scattering fiery pieces of itself in a perfect widening circle. Then all was darkness.

For a second I sat, frozen. Next, I heard myself shouting, “I saw one! I saw one!”  No matter if others never came.

But they did, arcing across the sky like nothing I had ever imagined, huge ribbons of white light flung through the darkness, streaming behind globes brilliant as head lights. Like gigantic fireworks, they erupted into golden chrysanthemums, illuminating ghostly fences undulating across miles of range land, the dirt road slicing away to a thread. All of them streaking and exploding in eerie silence, no sound carried across the vast void through which they traveled.

As they leapt by the hundreds to their grand finale, I experienced a strange sense of myself perched on the outer skin of my home planet journeying with them through time and space. For the briefest moment, I knew I was part of that incredible beauty and power, an immense, timeless vitality beyond anything I had ever believed was missing from my own life.

I stopped worrying about losing my way en route to California, falling off the edge of the earth. And I went back to my cozy room with its fireplace and patchwork quilt and slept dreamlessly all night.

Image Credit: NASA

Video: Inauguration Day

Wednesday, February 11th, 2009

A slide show video of The Traveler’s experience on the streets of Washington DC and on the Capitol grounds the morning of Barack Obama’s inauguration. The pictures tell the story:

Searching for the Lake Norman Monster

Sunday, November 2nd, 2008

By Roy Barnes

Sunset on Lake Norman - what lurks beneath? Photo credit: flicr courtesy of FLCLoch Ness, Scotland. Lake Van, Turkey.  Lake Hodges, California. Seljord Lake, Norway. All of these areas have had reported sightings of monsters. Well, North Carolina has its own alleged monster of the waterway called The Lake Norman Monster, or “Normie” to his close friends.

On a map, Lake Norman looks like a giant ink blot, and has some 520 miles of shore line, but is only 34 miles long and 50 square miles, holding some 32,000 acres of water (roughly 3 billion gallons).  It’s not surprising that a monster allegedly lurks here amidst all the lake’s nooks and crannies, whose fingers-like shoreline is filled with ostentatious-looking homes and thriving trees from the pine, oak, and willow family.   The monster, if it does exist, can hide in 130 feet of water in its deepest part (the south end at the Cowans Ford Dam which is less than 15 miles from downtown Charlotte). The average depth of Lake Norman is only around 30 feet.

Meeting Captain Gus

The day before getting on the boat, I had a chance to talk with a local boat captain named “Captain Gus”, who’s lived in this area since 1960 and guides lake cruises and fishing tours.

Captain Gus said that when people have claimed to see The Lake Norman Monster, what they may have seen in reality is a 4-foot female gar who’s spawning and being followed closely by 15-20 male gar (who’re three feet long), which Captain Gus calls “a Daisy chain”, giving off the impression of a long monster-type fish.

This gregarious fellow is very philosophical about this pre-occupation with the alleged monster in the lake, saying that if people talk openly about seeing UFO’s or lake monsters such as “Normie”, then others will think they’re crazy.  Yet creating a website about these subjects is considered more acceptable in the minds of people, which is why you’ll find a website dedicated to the Lake Norman monster here.

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