By Martyn Clarke-Smith

There is scarcely a teenager in Hanoi, North Vietnam, who doesn’t have their own motorcycle or scooter. The age to get a driving license is 17 years, but many are riding earlier than that. Likewise, wearing a helmut is compulsory but seldom enforced. Many children begin to learn to ride a motorcycle starting at 3 years old by standing up and holding onto the handlebars in front of mum or dad as they scurry through the streets on the way to grandma’s or be dropped at day-school.
This love affair with mobility must surely make Hanoi the motorcycle capital of the world. At one average street corner I counted 47 motorcycles passing me in just one minute, all moving at a reasonable speed – usually 15 to 20 kph. The motorcycles of Vietnam are ridden in equal numbers and with consummate skill by both sexes.
At one major crossroad controlled by traffic lights motorcycles, lined up 12-abreast, were waiting for the lights to change. Close to the red light is a clock ticking down the seconds from 20 until the lights change to green. At three seconds to go those waiting at the red light started to surge forward to join those crossing from the left and right in front of them. Even so, good temper pervades even the busiest crossroads; not once did I hear a shout of anger. There was a lot of slowing and weaving and horn-blowing but everyone got through the crossroads. Chaos works!




By Roy A. Barnes