By Martyn Clarke-Smith

Just like the wandering Albatross – there are fishermen and their families who seldom touch land…
They are the families who live in the world famous “floating Village” on Cambodia’s Tonle Sap Lake. The largest freshwater lake in S.E. Asia*.
Arriving at the river’s edge departure-point by tuc-tuc, we immediately hear the shouts:
“Quick-Quick! Boats are Leaving!”
I rush to the counter, which is staffed by uniformed officers.
“US$20 each,” says one.
Handing him a US$50 note, to pay for my partner and myself I am told,
“We don’t give change.”
I insist for change. He reluctantly complies, giving me instructions to give the change to the boatman as a tip.
My reply back is equally firm, and sadly unprintable here.
Taking my tickets we descend the long ramp towards the landing stage. Did I say ‘ramp’? Even General Hannibal wasn’t faced with this amount of difficulty as he descended the Alps into Italy with his elephants. The ramp, made from metal plates, appears to be set at about a 30 degree angle. Cautiously I creep down the first metre of the ramp only to be called back in mid step. Apparently I have committed the almost unpardonable sin of all: not getting my ticket torn in half. The fact that the ticket-tearer was away chatting with some young ladies had little to do with it.
I recommence my descent and by dint of holding onto the railing and slip-sliding my partner and I reach the landing stage some 15 metres below. Deep breath. Read More→





Just hearing the ‘S’ word conjures up images in my mind of “Jaws”, the 1975 Hollywood blockbuster that kept me out of the water for months. As if on the same wave-length, Bornovski continues: