Archive for Travel Stories – Page 4

Cambodia’s Floating Village

Wednesday, June 15th, 2011

By Martyn Clarke-Smith

A Floating School on Cambodia's Tonle Sap Lake

Just like the wandering Albatross –  there are fishermen and their families who seldom touch land…

They are the families who live in the world famous “floating Village” on Cambodia’s Tonle Sap Lake. The largest freshwater lake in S.E. Asia*.

Arriving at the river’s edge departure-point by tuc-tuc, we immediately hear the shouts:

“Quick-Quick! Boats are Leaving!”

I rush to the counter, which is staffed by uniformed officers.

“US$20 each,” says one.

Handing him a US$50 note, to pay for my partner and myself I am told,

“We don’t give change.”

I insist for change. He reluctantly complies, giving me instructions to give the change to the boatman as a tip.

My reply back is equally firm, and sadly unprintable here.

Taking my tickets we descend the long ramp towards the landing stage. Did I say ‘ramp’? Even General Hannibal wasn’t faced with this amount of difficulty as he descended the Alps into Italy with his elephants. The ramp, made from metal plates, appears to be set at about a 30 degree angle. Cautiously I creep down the first metre of the ramp only to be called back in mid step. Apparently I have committed the almost unpardonable sin of all: not getting my ticket torn in half. The fact that the ticket-tearer was away chatting with some young ladies had little to do with it.

I recommence my descent and by dint of holding onto the railing and slip-sliding my partner and I reach the landing stage some 15 metres below. Deep breath.     Read More→

by Keith Kellett

The Karunda Railway pulls into the town of Karunda

Long ago, back in the Dreamtime, say the Aborigines of the Atherton Tableland, the carpet snake, Buda-ji, used to frequently journey from the Tableland to the coast. Here, he would collect the beautiful nautilus shells, to barter for the things he needed. In his journeyings, he carved out the Barron Gorge and its tributary creeks, singing his song on the way.

Those who know the song can follow his trail even today. It’s doubtful, though, that John Robb, the engineer responsible for supervising the railway up here knew the song. But, by design or accident, he did approximately follow the path of Buda-ji, and the locomotives drawing the trains on what is now the Kuranda Scenic Railway are brightly painted with paintings telling his story, designed by Aboriginal artist George Riley.

The mountain town of Kuranda was founded in 1873 by miners in search of the gold that had been discovered in those thickly forested hills. Other valuable minerals were also found nearby. But, the town and the mines were served only by primitive tracks from the coast, which had to deal with thick rainforest and difficult terrain.

The winter of 1882 brought unprecedented heavy rain, rendering the tracks impassable, and the people of Kuranda and nearby settlements almost starved because essential supplies couldn’t get through.

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Come Sail Away – Life Aboard the Arabella

Thursday, April 28th, 2011

By Dianne Swanson

Arabella Sunset

Have you ever dreamed of sailing away on crystal blue waters – leaving all of your cares behind? Join me as we experience life aboard the Arabella, a 160-foot tri-masted schooner, sailing the Caribbean waters of the British Virgin Islands.

Heading to the airport on a ridiculously cold January morning, I was dreaming of how life would be for the next week on board the Arabella – the sun-filled, carefree days of doing nothing or doing everything I’d never done before.

As I picked up my bag at the baggage claim in St. Thomas and headed out to find a cab, I realized “Island Time” had just kicked in. The cabbie didn’t seem to be in any hurry, so I kicked myself into low gear, knowing I would be in a swimsuit drinking a pina colada very soon.

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Camping and the Art of Raccoons

Tuesday, April 19th, 2011

It seemed simple enough. Take a couple days and go camping. Get away and clear my head. When I return the upcoming busy schedule will be a piece of cake. I will feel refreshed and balanced. Excellent. What could possibly go wrong with that idea?

Raccoons. That’s what.

Oh yea, and gale force winds.

I live near San Francisco. Finding a place to camp is usually effortless, since the area abounds with spots to pitch a tent. Even though it was the middle of summer, I managed to get one of the last camping sites in Point Reyes National Seashore. This is a majestic national park north of the city that holds miles of grand California coastline. My location at the Coast Campground, the reservation website informed me, would be steps away from a sandy beach in a quiet part of the park. I joyfully packed my tent, clothes and basic supplies – ready for a little adventure. The two-hour drive sailed by without traffic or worry, leaving little warning of the approaching craziness. So much for those helpful foreboding omens I hear so much about.

To get to the site, I needed to walk a couple of miles over foothills to a small grassy valley nestled right by the ocean. As I neared the campground my excitement grew because it felt the spot would be perfect. There were 14 other sites in the campground, yet it felt spacious. My site was off in a corner and it seemed that I would have few neighbors. Given the lateness of the hour, I whisked out my tent and set it up in record time. The light began to dim as sunset neared and I sat at my little picnic table surveying the scene. I breathed a sigh, enjoying the peace.

Then the attack started.
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Preserving and Conserving Palau

Friday, April 1st, 2011

By Jane Cassie
Images by Brent Cassie (except where noted)

Evergreen islands dot Palau’s cerulean waters

Sharks! Hammerhead, white-tip, grey reef, oh my!

Although the purpose of my trip to Palau, a pristine archipelago that peppers the western corner of Micronesia, is for a little beach bliss, I also plan to venture beneath the waves where the 600,000 square kilometer (200,000 square mile) first officially-recognized world shark sanctuary has been declared. This tropical oasis, coined the seventh underwater wonder of the world, is aimed at preserving over a hundred and thirty-five types of vulnerable fish. But how close can I get to these swimmers before I feel the same?

After chatting with Tova Bornovski, General Manager of Fish ‘n Fins and founding member of Micronesia Shark Foundation, and Dermot Keane, Managing Director of Sam’s Tours and creator of The Palau Shark Sanctuary, my preconceived fears are alleviated.

“People are terrified of sharks and there’s absolutely no reason,” Bornovski says assuredly. “In the twelve years that we’ve been operating, there hasn’t been an attack on any divers.”

White Tip Shark swims in the warm Palau watersJust hearing the ‘S’ word conjures up images in my mind of “Jaws”, the 1975 Hollywood blockbuster that kept me out of the water for months. As if on the same wave-length, Bornovski continues:

“It’s a big misconception –and one that the author, Peter Benchley, regretted helping create. In fact, before passing away he donated proceeds from his book to shark preservation.”

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