Archive for Travel Resources – Page 5

Hawks and History at Gold Discovery Park, California

Saturday, March 7th, 2009

By P.K. Wink

Falconry is a family affair at Gold Discover ParkHawking, a hunting sport from distant antiquity with a history going back some 4000 years, is alive and well thanks to dedicated aficionados like Steve Robello and Mark Duval. These two local falconers periodically give public demonstrations sponsored by the American River Conservancy, a non-profit organization dedicated to protecting and enhancing natural habitats where wildlife can flourish, at the Gold Discovery Park, located along historic Highway 49 in Coloma, Californa. No actual hunting went on during the recent lecture and demonstration since permitted hunting areas and legal seasons for hawking are tightly controlled by law. But the wide-ranging talk and exhibition stirred visions of old English barons hunting wild game with predator hawks, falcons and even eagles.

Raptors were a status symbol in ancient times dating from at least 1700 B.C., as shown on bas-relief in Assyria, continuing on through the 15th century. During their heyday, there were harsh penalties for disturbing nests or poaching falcons as the birds were quite valuable; such protective policies marked the beginning of modern-day rules on conservation. According to our lecturer, the advent of more efficient weaponry, i.e., firearms, in the 1400’s almost overnight ended the popularity of raptors and made their use as hunters less widespread.

Today there are some 3000 licensed falconers in the U.S. who have taken classes, undergone testing through state Fish and Game Departments, found a sponsor, completed a two-year Apprenticeship, upgraded to General level and after five years, finally achieved status as Masters. The conservation efforts of these experts have rescued species such as the Peregrine Falcon from endangered status.

As part of ongoing historical activities at Coloma, site of the 1848 gold discovery by James Marshall at Sutter’s Mill, the American River Conservancy offers a number of programs throughout the year. Living history events, sponsored by the Gold Discovery Park Association, occur around holidays and always on Gold Discovery Day, January 24th. The park museum was recently renovated and makes a worthwhile hour-long visit. Its vivid historical displays include an authentic stagecoach, period costumes, photographs and well-used gold mining tools. The adjacent gift shop offers gold jewelry, books, toys and period dress patterns.

A hawk takes to the sky

Following the falconry lecture, two gleaming golden brown raptors were released into the sky as a highlight of the event. These were Harris Hawks, known as “wolves of the sky” because unlike most hawks that hunt in solitary, the Harris hunts in packs, working in tandem to capture their prey then sharing the kill.

Freed from their perches, away the two birds went, tethers dangling, flying low and banking purposefully one direction and the other, oblivious to legal hunting areas or seasons. They paused in nearby treetops, hungrily scanning the terrain for unwary ground squirrels or other appetizing morsels. The intimidating pair was lured back with treats of gory meat-bundles before they had a chance to snag any unsuspecting critters. In fact, we learned those sharp-toothed clawed critters could be hazardous for the hawks, who risk injury to their legs in attacking such well-armed prey. In open fields during legal hunting seasons, the birds prefer gentler fare of rabbit, duck, quail or grouse.

“Are they sort of pets? Do they like you?” someone asked Mark.
“Oh no,” he laughed. “If they could hold me down, they would eat me.”

Perhaps so and the caution was sufficient to restrain any effort at petting the beautiful, yet sinister-looking creatures. But the brief flight by these “wolves of the sky” was enough to make the pulse race and the breath quicken from the sheer primitive bloodlust of it. The thrill of watching those powerful wings and the cold, hungry look in raptor eyes brought a distant world of hunting into sharp relief.


Year-Round Acitvities at Gold Discovery Park

  • Melodrama at the Olde Coloma Theater. Five different shows are presented from mid-May through late December. This is one of only three theaters in the state that allows audience members to interact with the cast by cheering the heroine and booing the villain.
  • American River Music Festival in September, held at nearby Henningsen-Lotus Park, features a day of rafting and music, naturalist-led hikes and music, musicians teaching in schools, and of course a wide range of performers on the main stage and in many smaller ones in local campgrounds.
  • American River Acoustic Music Camp in August is a learning opportunity open to individuals and families.
  • Coloma Gold Rush Live, which takes place in October, is full of sights, sounds, scents, and hands-on experiences as costumed volunteers living in a tent encampment and working a recreated mining camp demonstrate history.
  • Christmas in Coloma offers an old-fashioned Christmas celebration each December, with period crafts, music, strolling musicians, historic trade demonstrations, 19th-century children’s games, and wreath making, highlighted by a visit from Santa and Mrs. Claus.

By Diane Covington

Bracebridge 03 THUMB_Lani Spicer - Andrea Fulton Productions.jpgIn these tough and challenging economic times, it may seem rather frivolous to think about going to an extravagant holiday celebration such as the Bracebridge dinner in Yosemite Valley. And yet, this once in a lifetime opportunity could be a Christmas gift that you and a loved one could cherish, rather than a thing that could just take up space in your house and be forgotten by New Year’s. You’d be purchasing an experience, creating a memory, and that can be priceless.

I went to the Bracebridge dinner in 2006 and will never forget it. I had heard about it for decades and wondered what all the hoopla was about. Well, the buzz was well deserved. The seven-course feast was scrumptious and the performance, spanning four hours, was professional and riveting. One minute I was laughing hysterically at the antics of the jester, the next moved to tears at a rendition of Ave Maria or O Holy Night.

In the heart of Yosemite Valley, the historic Ahwahnee Hotel, where the Bracebridge is performed, sits right up against the three thousand foot granite cliffs, its rock façade blending with the massive stones behind it. The Ahwahnee, the ‘Grand Dame’ hotel of the park, was built in 1927 for a sum of 1.5 million dollars. The elegant dining room, with giant sugar pine beams criss-crossing the 34-foot ceilings, can feel like a scene from a fairy tale.

The Ahwahnee dining room becomes the medieval great hall of fictional Squire Bracebridge, who comes to life from the pages of ‘Old Christmas’, a story penned in 1819 by Washington Irving, (who also wrote ‘Rip Van Winkle’ and ‘the Legend of Sleepy Hollow’). The jovial Squire devotes himself to the preservation of the old English hospitality of ‘making merry’ and spares no expense when he invites his family and friends to feast with him on Christmas Day, 1718. If you’re attending the Bracebridge dinner, that’s you.

The fanfare of trumpets heralds the beginning of the feast. Women in jeweled velvet gowns and men in tights and feathered caps escort you to your tables inside the candlelit hall. Fresh pine boughs and colorful banners decorate the hall where more than 100 players sing and dance for your enjoyment.

Bracebridge 01 THUMB_Lani Spicer - Andrea Fulton Productions.jpgThe feast, a seven-course affair that is a delight for all the senses, has kept the same order and substance since the first dinner in 1927. Serving folk present the four main courses–fish, poultry, beef and pudding –on elaborate platters, for the Squire’s approval. Singers add their voices to these processions, minstrels wander and jesters entertain, adding to the festive atmosphere.

The sounding of chimes signals the presentation of each course. Within minutes, over 350 guests have been served by a hundred servers with a hundred more working behind the scenes in the kitchen.

The celebration, which began in 1927, has been performed annually, except during World War II. Famed photographer Ansel Adams wrote the rhymed four-beat cadence of the characters’ lines and chose fine music such as “The Coventry Carol” and “O Holy Night”. Adams also played the part of the ‘Lord of Misrule’(the jester) for many years. The program he created, of carols, music and Renaissance rituals, is still used today.

What was once just a Christmas Day performance, has grown to eight performances a year. Tickets used to be so hard to come by that a lottery system, now discontinued, was in effect for over 25 years. The program does sell out, usually on ‘Christmas Eve, but there are plenty of spaces on other evenings. The squire now “Bids ye welcome to Bracebridge Hall” for those who would like to celebrate with him.

In the words of Director Andrea Fulton: “the Bracebridge represents a Christmas that never was, but a Christmas that lives in everyone’s hearts.”

To balance out your winter feasting, take advantage of the full schedule of daily activities in the valley, most of them free, open to park visitors. Or choose from the many different levels of winter sports activities for all ages. (See box for details.) The park keeps the roads clear, but carry chains.

Whether for feasting or for outdoor fun, the majesty of Yosemite in winter will transport you to an earlier time and place, full of wonder and magic. And the Ahwahnee hotel will add her elegant and romantic welcome. That might be just the ticket for this Christmas after all.

Winter activities in Yosemite National Park:

  • Badger Pass Winter Sports: From the valley, catch the free shuttle up to Badger Pass Ski Area, for snowboarding, downhill and cross-country skiing. Or enjoy a free snowshoe walk with a Park Ranger, daily at 10:30am. (You can rent snowshoes for $5.)
  • Valley sports and fun: pretend you’re an Olympic skater at the Curry Village Ice skating rink. Or get a head start on the hiking season this year. Depending on the level of snowfall, many valley hiking trails may be open.
  • Ranger Walks and talks: Each day in the valley, choose among various indoor talks or valley walks, even ‘Wee Wild Ones’ for children under six. Or catch an evening Ranger program at Yosemite Lodge. Check the website for all current information.
  • Museums and gallery: Browse through the Visitor’s Center, Ansel Adams Gallery or the Indian Cultural Museum or watch the half-hour film, ‘The Spirit of Yosemite’.

Diane Covington 2008

Part 7 in the series, Backroads of Provence
By Diane Covington

Hotel Berard. Photo by Diane CovingtonLa Cadière d’Azur

The village of La Cadière d’Azur was our last stop before we had to head back to California. Nestled in the hills just a few kilometers from the Mediterranean, it glowed like a precious gem.

It is so rare to find a village that hasn’t been influenced or changed by tourism, and feels like a true ‘village Provencal’. La Cadière d’Azur does.

Wander down the narrow alleyways and up some stone steps and discover the 16th century Church of Saint André. Its bell, the oldest in the Var region, tolls the hours and dates from 1458.

There is only one hotel in the village, L’Hostellerie Bérard & Spa, a family-run enterprise. The parents started it 40 years ago and now the son, like his father, has become a chef. Their daughter also came back to work with her parents, so you are being welcomed ‘en famille’—to a real French family, and that is how it feels.

After you enter the cozy reception area, you can wander into the bar and restaurant, with an expansive view of the vineyards and farms in the valley below.The 37 rooms of the hotel are tucked into four historic buildings next door– they are just part of the village.

The father, renowned chef René Bérard earned one Michelin star for the restaurant and his son, Jean-Francois is following in his footsteps.The family offers classes in cooking, wine, painting and there are opportunities for bicycling, hiking and other outdoor sports in the area.

Their Aroma Spa, combines aromatherapy with hydrotherapy treatments, also incorporating music and color into the programs. All of the herbs and oils used in the treatments come from their nearby organic farm—even the rose petals that decorate the mirrored surfaces are grown by the family. They offer a full menu of massages, body wraps and scrubs, facials—so many choices.

We enjoyed a sumptuous lunch, then a massage and a relaxed sojourn in the spa’s hammam, sauna and Jacuzzi soaking tubs . The hotel was booked, so we could only go for the day, but I look forward to going back to stay—for as long as possible.

I already want to return and explore this region of Provence again. It would be fun to plan a trip around wine tasting or ‘ degustation’ and really take the time to discover the wines of the Var region. Leisurely days of wine tasting, spa treatments and wonderful food, not to mention classes at the Hostellerie, well, if this isn’t ‘l’art de vivre’ that the French are so famous for, what is?

Some great websites that can help you to plan ahead and make sure that the Hostellerie is not booked up, are: Tourismevar.com (in French) and Var-Prestige.com (in French and English).

For more information, you can contact me at my website: DianeCovington.com.

Till next time, au revoir and happy traveling!

Part 6 in the series, Backroads of Provenece
By Diane Covington

Hotel Delos. Photo by Diane CovingtonFrom Marseille, it is just a short drive up the coast to Bandol, back in the Var region of Provence. This lovely seaside village could be called the ‘undiscovered St. Tropez’ because of the huge yachts in the harbor.   But unlike St. Tropez, we might have been the only Americans there, which can be a treat.

Though Bandol itself has a lot to offer in beaches and resorts, we were going on an adventure across the harbor to a tiny island, L’île de Bendor.

Just seven minutes by ferry across the harbor, the island is called the ‘place where time has stopped’.  Such a tranquil place to stop and catch a breath, unwind and enjoy the sun sparkling off the Mediterranean.

The brochure for this island says:  “La belle a toujours une âme” – the beautiful always has a soul.  It feels like this tiny island does have a soul, and a lovely one.

Hotel Delos seen from the incoming ferry. Photo: Diane CovingtonThe ivy-covered Hotel Delos welcomed us and the view from our balcony looked back toward Bandol and out to sea. We loved the feeling of space, being on an island surrounded by vibrant blue waves.  We sipped some excellent Côtes de Provence chilled rosé wine and watched the sailboats drift by.

For dinner, we just ambled downstairs one floor to the hotel’s excellent restaurant. The chef is renowned in France, which says a lot.  Our dinner was a succulent piece of beef with mushrooms and truffles.  (Pièce de boeuf et sa tartine de pain à la moêlle et truffes.)  So delicious, especially when paired with a hearty red wine from the Pibarnon winery, of the Bandol region.

Dessert was a Tart Citron or lemon tart. a perfect ending to this memorable meal.

After dinner, we drifted off to sleep with the sound of the sea lapping on the rocks below our balcony.  The next day, after a leisurely morning that included a brisk dip in the Mediterranean, it was time to head back across the harbor to our next stop, a tiny village just up the road, through the vineyards of the Bandol region, to another hotel with another renowned chef and a one star Michelin restaurant.

So stay tuned.  More adventures just around the bend.

Back Roads of Provence: Part 5 – Marseille

Friday, October 10th, 2008

Part 5 in the series, Backroads of Provenece
By Diane Covington

Harbor at Marseille. Photo by Diane CovingtonThough the bustling city of Marseille is not on a ‘back road’ of Provence, it is definitely worth a visit.  Just a short drive (or train or bus ride) from Aix, Marseille is the oldest city in France, founded by the Greeks in the 6th century BC.

There are stunning views of the Mediterranean from many parts of the city.  But the most dazzling view is from the basilica Notre Dame de la Garde, a neo-Byzantine style cathedral, 154 meters high, with a gilded statue of Mary on top.  The interior of the cathedral has been restored and the frescoes are breathtaking.

The corniche, or coastal road, winds out of the city to the Calanques, cliffs that jut into the sea–popular for diving, hiking or swimming in the summer.  We stopped in the little village of Goudes for lunch at La Marine des Goudes.

Then a leisurely drive back up the corniche to settle into our Hotel Beauvau Vieux Port, right on the harbor, before the adventure of tasting an authentic bouillabaisse later that evening.

We took in the Vincent Van Gogh/Monticelli exhibition at the Centre de la Vieille Charite museum.  The work of  Monticelli, a native of Marseille and a master of the Provencal school, had a significant influence on Van Gogh.  The exhibit had 20 paintings by Van Gogh and 60 by Monticelli.  I found it very moving to stand in front of a Van Gogh, the paint swirled thick and showing his fast strokes, and see his name scratched in the left top corner, simply ‘Vincent’.

The exhibition shows the painters’ work side by side, allowing visitors to compare their respective styles.   It continues until January 11th, 2009.

Back at our hotel, we could watch the comings and goings of the ships in the harbor. I love to watch the fishing boats come back in the morning, just like they’ve been doing for centuries.  They set up a table and unpack their haul of the day and then sell it right there.  Talk about fresh fish!

It was just a short walk to Le Miramar, renowned for its bouillabaisse.

If you’re planning on trying bouillabaisse, a few tips.  Don’t eat any bread and go lightly on the courses that come before.  It is a lot of fish!  We had six different types of fish in ours, and I could have easily split a portion, though I don’t know if that is allowed.  (And asking for a ‘doggie bag’ is definitely a ‘faux paux’.)

Somehow there was room for the apple tart at the end, a delectable light tart with thin pastry and lots of caramelized apples.

We decided to continue our adventure by going back to the back roads.  So stay tuned.  More fun to come.