Archive for Travel Resources – Page 5

Back Roads of Provence: Part 7 – La Cadière d’Azur

By Diane Covington · Comments (1)
Thursday, October 16th, 2008

Part 7 in the series, Backroads of Provence
By Diane Covington

Hotel Berard. Photo by Diane CovingtonLa Cadière d’Azur

The village of La Cadière d’Azur was our last stop before we had to head back to California. Nestled in the hills just a few kilometers from the Mediterranean, it glowed like a precious gem.

It is so rare to find a village that hasn’t been influenced or changed by tourism, and feels like a true ‘village Provencal’. La Cadière d’Azur does.

Wander down the narrow alleyways and up some stone steps and discover the 16th century Church of Saint André. Its bell, the oldest in the Var region, tolls the hours and dates from 1458.

There is only one hotel in the village, L’Hostellerie Bérard & Spa, a family-run enterprise. The parents started it 40 years ago and now the son, like his father, has become a chef. Their daughter also came back to work with her parents, so you are being welcomed ‘en famille’—to a real French family, and that is how it feels.

After you enter the cozy reception area, you can wander into the bar and restaurant, with an expansive view of the vineyards and farms in the valley below.The 37 rooms of the hotel are tucked into four historic buildings next door– they are just part of the village.

The father, renowned chef René Bérard earned one Michelin star for the restaurant and his son, Jean-Francois is following in his footsteps.The family offers classes in cooking, wine, painting and there are opportunities for bicycling, hiking and other outdoor sports in the area.

Their Aroma Spa, combines aromatherapy with hydrotherapy treatments, also incorporating music and color into the programs. All of the herbs and oils used in the treatments come from their nearby organic farm—even the rose petals that decorate the mirrored surfaces are grown by the family. They offer a full menu of massages, body wraps and scrubs, facials—so many choices.

We enjoyed a sumptuous lunch, then a massage and a relaxed sojourn in the spa’s hammam, sauna and Jacuzzi soaking tubs . The hotel was booked, so we could only go for the day, but I look forward to going back to stay—for as long as possible.

I already want to return and explore this region of Provence again. It would be fun to plan a trip around wine tasting or ‘ degustation’ and really take the time to discover the wines of the Var region. Leisurely days of wine tasting, spa treatments and wonderful food, not to mention classes at the Hostellerie, well, if this isn’t ‘l’art de vivre’ that the French are so famous for, what is?

Some great websites that can help you to plan ahead and make sure that the Hostellerie is not booked up, are: Tourismevar.com (in French) and Var-Prestige.com (in French and English).

For more information, you can contact me at my website: DianeCovington.com.

Till next time, au revoir and happy traveling!

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Categories : Destinations, Europe, France, Provence, Travel Ideas, Travel Resources, Travel Stories, Travelogues
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Back Roads of Provence: Part 6 – Bandol and “The Little Isle of Bendor”

By The Traveler · Comments (1)
Tuesday, October 14th, 2008

Part 6 in the series, Backroads of Provenece
By Diane Covington

Hotel Delos. Photo by Diane CovingtonFrom Marseille, it is just a short drive up the coast to Bandol, back in the Var region of Provence. This lovely seaside village could be called the ‘undiscovered St. Tropez’ because of the huge yachts in the harbor.   But unlike St. Tropez, we might have been the only Americans there, which can be a treat.

Though Bandol itself has a lot to offer in beaches and resorts, we were going on an adventure across the harbor to a tiny island, L’île de Bendor.

Just seven minutes by ferry across the harbor, the island is called the ‘place where time has stopped’.  Such a tranquil place to stop and catch a breath, unwind and enjoy the sun sparkling off the Mediterranean.

The brochure for this island says:  “La belle a toujours une âme” – the beautiful always has a soul.  It feels like this tiny island does have a soul, and a lovely one.

Hotel Delos seen from the incoming ferry. Photo: Diane CovingtonThe ivy-covered Hotel Delos welcomed us and the view from our balcony looked back toward Bandol and out to sea. We loved the feeling of space, being on an island surrounded by vibrant blue waves.  We sipped some excellent Côtes de Provence chilled rosé wine and watched the sailboats drift by.

For dinner, we just ambled downstairs one floor to the hotel’s excellent restaurant. The chef is renowned in France, which says a lot.  Our dinner was a succulent piece of beef with mushrooms and truffles.  (Pièce de boeuf et sa tartine de pain à la moêlle et truffes.)  So delicious, especially when paired with a hearty red wine from the Pibarnon winery, of the Bandol region.

Dessert was a Tart Citron or lemon tart. a perfect ending to this memorable meal.

After dinner, we drifted off to sleep with the sound of the sea lapping on the rocks below our balcony.  The next day, after a leisurely morning that included a brisk dip in the Mediterranean, it was time to head back across the harbor to our next stop, a tiny village just up the road, through the vineyards of the Bandol region, to another hotel with another renowned chef and a one star Michelin restaurant.

So stay tuned.  More adventures just around the bend.

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Back Roads of Provence: Part 5 – Marseille

By Diane Covington · Comments (1)
Friday, October 10th, 2008

Part 5 in the series, Backroads of Provenece
By Diane Covington

Harbor at Marseille. Photo by Diane CovingtonThough the bustling city of Marseille is not on a ‘back road’ of Provence, it is definitely worth a visit.  Just a short drive (or train or bus ride) from Aix, Marseille is the oldest city in France, founded by the Greeks in the 6th century BC.

There are stunning views of the Mediterranean from many parts of the city.  But the most dazzling view is from the basilica Notre Dame de la Garde, a neo-Byzantine style cathedral, 154 meters high, with a gilded statue of Mary on top.  The interior of the cathedral has been restored and the frescoes are breathtaking.

The corniche, or coastal road, winds out of the city to the Calanques, cliffs that jut into the sea–popular for diving, hiking or swimming in the summer.  We stopped in the little village of Goudes for lunch at La Marine des Goudes.

Then a leisurely drive back up the corniche to settle into our Hotel Beauvau Vieux Port, right on the harbor, before the adventure of tasting an authentic bouillabaisse later that evening.

We took in the Vincent Van Gogh/Monticelli exhibition at the Centre de la Vieille Charite museum.  The work of  Monticelli, a native of Marseille and a master of the Provencal school, had a significant influence on Van Gogh.  The exhibit had 20 paintings by Van Gogh and 60 by Monticelli.  I found it very moving to stand in front of a Van Gogh, the paint swirled thick and showing his fast strokes, and see his name scratched in the left top corner, simply ‘Vincent’.

The exhibition shows the painters’ work side by side, allowing visitors to compare their respective styles.   It continues until January 11th, 2009.

Back at our hotel, we could watch the comings and goings of the ships in the harbor. I love to watch the fishing boats come back in the morning, just like they’ve been doing for centuries.  They set up a table and unpack their haul of the day and then sell it right there.  Talk about fresh fish!

It was just a short walk to Le Miramar, renowned for its bouillabaisse.

If you’re planning on trying bouillabaisse, a few tips.  Don’t eat any bread and go lightly on the courses that come before.  It is a lot of fish!  We had six different types of fish in ours, and I could have easily split a portion, though I don’t know if that is allowed.  (And asking for a ‘doggie bag’ is definitely a ‘faux paux’.)

Somehow there was room for the apple tart at the end, a delectable light tart with thin pastry and lots of caramelized apples.

We decided to continue our adventure by going back to the back roads.  So stay tuned.  More fun to come.

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Categories : Europe, France, Travel Ideas, Travel Resources, Travel Stories, Travel Writing, Travelogues
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The Backroads of Provence: Part 2 – Chateau de Berne

By Diane Covington · Comments (2)
Tuesday, September 23rd, 2008

Part 2 in the series, The Backroads of Provence
By Diane Covington

The breakfast table at Chateau de Berne. Photo by Diane CovingtonWe left the amazing Terre Blanche and continued along the winding roads in the hills above the Mediterranean toward our next destination, Le Chateau de Berne, a winery and 18th century chateau and inn. On the way, we stopped for a coffee at Saint Endreol Golf Course, a lovely spot to golf or stay, but we wanted to keep going–we were excited to experience the Chateau de Berne.

We also stopped at Chateau Sainte Roseline to taste some Rosé wine and visit their chapel, well worth the stop. Then just down the road, we entered the over 1500 acre estate of Chateau de Berne . This very successful vineyard and inn feels like you’re staying in a country house of a generous and well off friend. Like Terre Blanche, the quiet and peace of the place is palpable and refreshing. The rooms are upstairs from the restaurant and it feels like you’re home and running downstairs for dinner. Their website calls it an ‘intimate country residence’ and they have it right.

We relaxed in our comfortable room before dinner and then headed down the stairs for a memorable evening. Our dinner menu was paired with wines from their own vineyard, white, rosé and red. We started with mixed smoked salmon, parma ham, parmesan cheese and tender greens. Our main course was a slow roasted lamb cannelloni with lamb chop. Then came a selection of cheeses and then dessert, a tasting plate including crème brulée and other luscious bite-sized treats. The fine damask tablecloth and napkins in a soft peach color on the table, the fresh flowers on the table and throughout the rooms and the excellent service made us feel very taken care of and wanting to stay as long as possible.

The next morning, we swam in the heated pool as the sun came up and turned the clouds and sky a rosy pink. Breakfast of fresh croissants and fruit and a lazy morning at the inn prepared us for our journey back down to the coast to rediscover Saint Tropez and Sainte Maxime, off season. Stay tuned for the next update and more adventures.

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For more information about this area of ‘Undiscovered Provence’, check out these websites:
www.tourismevar.com
www.var-prestige.com

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Categories : Destinations, Europe, France, Travel Ideas, Travel Photography, Travel Resources, Travel Stories, Travel Writing, Travelogues
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Back Roads and Undiscovered Provence – A Travel Series by Diane Covington

By Diane Covington · Comments (2)
Monday, September 22nd, 2008

Join veteran travel writer Diane Covington as she travel the backroads of Provence in this new travelogue series exclusive to The Traveler.

I’ve traveled to France for over 25 years and even lived in France in 2000 for almost a year. I have a passion for the culture and the language that is both mysterious and fulfilling. I’m always looking for new places to explore or new ways to explore old places.

So when I heard about the properties that I’m going to share with you here, I just had to go and check them out. The idea of undiscovered Provence down back roads, well, it was too good. And it turned out to be even better than I could have imagined. But then, I’m prejudiced. But even so, these fall into the category of the rare and the magical, so stay tuned.

We arrived in late September, 2008, on the Fall Equinox, at the Terre Blanche Four Seasons Resort (http://www.fourseasons.com/provence/) in the hills behind Cannes, France. After landing in Nice, it was a short drive along winding roads up into the hills, leaving behind the crowds of the coast.

The Terre Blanche feels like a little piece of Provencal heaven. When we arrived, tired from all our traveling, the staff met us with towels that smelled of rosemary and thyme. There is an utter quiet and peace to the place, a chance to go back in time and to feel what France has to offer, ‘l’art de vivre’, the art of living at a slower pace and of really enjoying each moment.

The property is set up like a small village, with individual suites looking across the valley to the perched village of Fayence. Each suite has a sitting room and courtyard, spacious bedroom and bath, with comfortable beds, fine linens and cozy comforters. French doors open out to the terrace from the living room and bedroom. A massage at the spa, then a soak in the heated pool and jacuzzi, helped with jet lag. The landscaping is designed with aromatic plants–lavender, rosemary, and thyme, among others, and their scents filled the fresh air as we walked back to our cottage.

At Terre Blanche, you can play golf at one of two 18 hole courses, swim, visit the nearby villages or just kick back and relax at the pool or on your private terrace. There are five restaurants to choose from, and the Faventia, the main restaurant, has one MIchelin star. Executive Chef Philippe Jourdin creates fresh, contemporary Mediterranean menus, complemented by both local and international wines. Our three course dinner at Faventia included a first course of Zucchini flowers stuffed with Provencal flavors and a baby leaves salad. Our second course was rolled fillet of sole with mashed zucchini, olives bitter juice, tomato petals and rocket leaves. And for dessert, we enjoyed light cream of vanilla and fresh raspberries, rose ice cream and a soft biscuit in a crispy shell of Provencal almonds.

The presentation of each course was elegant and beautiful and we had to admire the plate before beginning to savor the creations. With the first course, we took the suggestion of the chef and enjoyed a Chassagne Montrachet Domaine Borgeot, 1995, a crisp white wine. And for the second course, Aloxe Corton Domaine Rapet, 2004, a full red wine. The restaurant lived up to its one Michelin Star, with both the food and the service and our dinner became a special part of the Terre Blanche memories. I recommend staying at least two days, to really slow down and savor the experience of this special resort and the area.

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For more information about this area of ‘Undiscovered Provence’, check out these websites:
www.tourismevar.com
www.var-prestige.com

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Categories : Destinations, Europe, France, Travel Ideas, Travel Resources, Travel Stories, Travel Writing, Travelogues
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