Archive for Solo Travel

Overdosing on Serendipity in Kauai – part 1

Tuesday, August 2nd, 2011

by Jennifer Stuart

I had just gotten off my little inter-island flight from the Big Island to Kauai. My hair still smelled like the woods, fry bread, orchids and wild guavas. I had enjoyed a month of tromping around the Big Island, meeting new people and staying at an eco-village near the mermaid pools. I had only come back to Kauai because that is where my flight back to the Mainland was leaving. As you can imagine, my mind was giving the pink Kauai breeze a bittersweet taint.

I did not want to leave. It was February and my eventual destination was Connecticut.

This garden island was where I began my Hawaii adventures, but after the Big Island it just seemed so…small. The inescapable ocean made it impossible to forget that I was indeed sitting on a small rock in the middle of the sea. I got off the plane and walked out of the airport. The airport parking lot was not built for pedestrians. I dodged cars and tried my best to stay out of the way, with my giant purple back pack and wild hair laden with sea shells and leftover wind from many rides along the ocean.

This is the part I’m very proud of. I stood on the side of the road, sun in my eyes, right by that beastly airport and stuck out my thumb. All alone. My horrible sense of direction was finally not a concern because there was only one road. All I needed to do was get a ride with the ocean on my right and I would be at my favortite coffee shop in no time.

It wasn’t long before a little car stuttered its way to a gentle stop in the generous pull-over lane. I always loved hearing the exasperated “I can’t believe you are doing that all by yourself!” It was impossible to get sick of it because I couldn’t believe it either. I was happily striving to be a girl that was afraid of nothing – that could throw back whiskey with Jack Kerouac (but he would spell it whisky) or Bob Dylan. I could show him how many of his songs I knew how to play on guitar. It would all be fabulous.

Trusting the kindness of strangers is a lot easier in Hawaii than many other places. There are no cities, no easy way for bad guys to hide in mazes of metal and darkness. Everything is bright, and there is a rainbow almost every day. Who would even want to be a bad guy with a rainbow every day?

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Traveling Solo Without Feeling Lonely

Tuesday, November 23rd, 2010

Traveling solo doesn't mean being lonelySix Tips for Overcoming Your Fear of Travelling Alone

by Nelda Schulte

You want to take your first trip on your own, but the combination of a new country, a foreign language, and an unknown culture, leave you feeling pretty shaky. Fear not! With a few tips on solo travel technique and a little moxie, you’ll find yourself happily traveling alone.

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The Night the Stars Fell

Sunday, March 22nd, 2009

By Cecilia Worth

Leonid Meteor Shower: The Night the Stars Fell, a story by Cecilia WorthJust beyond the nose of my old Mazda, its faded green streaked with dried road salt, swayed a Colorado interstate sign that surely lied. The information on the sign, Route 25, matched the Route 25 printed on my map. But never in its wildest dreams could this road pass for a four-lane highway. Across land that might have been ironed flat, a ribbon of bleached asphalt stretched towards New Mexico, proof that parallel lines meet if you can see far enough. Except for snow-encrusted tumbleweeds knocked about by the wind, nothing moved over the endlessness of withered grass and ice. My travel guide, on which I depended as a baby on its mother, had betrayed me.

Only after months of meticulous planning had I set out on this solo trip across the United States. No matter how keen my enthusiasm for adventure, whenever I drove alone into unfamiliar territory something inside me insisted that I would not be seen again. I could never free myself from images of roads dwindling into impassable tracts, losing themselves in fog and gloom. Yesterday that nightmare took on credibility. As I crept over an icy pass into the Rocky Mountains, snow-plastered foothills thousands of feet high, I eyed two huge

Mainline Moving Vans slow-skating across each other’s lanes and knew one thing absolutely. I must abandon my northern route to California, my carefully woven safety net of yellow-markered road maps, detailed directions to every B&B, day-to-day itineraries. I must detour south through territory I had never researched.

Now, far beyond the frozen wasteland waiting to gobble me up hovered the outline of yet another mountain range. Cold seeped into the car. Only a mile back stood a small motel, an island of safety and warmth. Yet, wisdom – or maybe pure obstinacy – argued that my supplies included a full tank of gas, food and a sleeping bag, and that hunkering down in a motel would not get me to California. Latching on to the words less for reassurance than to fight panic, I spun the heater dial as high as it would go and drove onto the road.

Gusts slammed the car into a zig-zag course. Frozen puddles crackled beneath the tires. Snow encroached along the pavement’s edge until I seemed to be crunching across the plain itself. My fingers ached from their vice-grip on the steering wheel.

For hours, the land remained the same, the odometer’s changing digits my only proof of progress. When at last the road burrowed into the Sangre de Christo mountains, I pushed on, never stopping for fear the lack of motion would bring on paralysis. Snow berms towered above the car, the road’s surface packed firm as a ski trail.

By twilight, emerging into New Mexico’s winter-brown range land, I was a zombie, wanting only a roof and a bed. A sign, Casa del Gavilon, pointed down a rutted dirt lane that dipped into a grove of cottonwoods sheltering an adobe hacienda. Inside, darkly stained beams, fireplaces of hand-laid stones, and rugs in warm reds and blues created an immense comforting quiet.

“People don’t usually visit at this time of year,” said the grey-haired housekeeper, as she laid a newspaper next to a tureen of steaming soup, her movements unperturbed by the trials of daily life. Below a loosely

knitted brown cardigan that lapped across her ample frontage like a favorite blanket, her feet overflowed the embrace of squashed carpet slippers.  “I expect you’ve come for tonight’s meteor shower.”

The paper’s headlines took up half a page. Leonids hurtle by on annual visit. Unique meteor storm predicted. Thousands per hour. Rare event only once every thirty-three years. Best viewing after midnight. Why would I want to venture out into the cold and wind just when I had escaped? Oblivion was what I craved.

The housekeeper patted a yawn back into her mouth. “Most folks around here don’t get too excited about losing a good night’s sleep to see a bunch of shooting stars.”

Her indifference prodded something in me that rebelled against dullness. There was that curiosity again, that call of the wild. Thoughts of the moonless dark and the lonely waiting pressed me to reconsider. But to disregard this opportunity, and the circumstances that had brought me to it, would be almost sinful.

That evening I went to sleep early wearing all my clothes, including my boots. I knew that, when the alarm went off at midnight, if I even had to tie my shoelaces, I would never tear myself out of that warm, cozy bed.

So it was, with the silence of the old house hissing in my ears and my heart hammering, I tiptoed out to my car. The motor sounded like a dozen backhoes coming to life.

Headlights dim, I drove slowly through the dark until I was far out on the range. The strange world of late hours seemed alive with unseen eyes, stealth and menace.

I could scurry back to my warm bed and in the morning give myself credit for trying. Probably I would see nothing anyhow. The only human being for miles around foolish enough to be out in the middle of nowhere waiting for a miracle.

Cautiously, I backed the car off the road and down an incline, until the windshield slanted towards the sky, transforming my seat into an upholstered recliner. Above me the sky was as ordinary as a thousand other night skies, a blanket of darkness spattered with starlight, blending with the horizon. The prairie grass rustled and the wind moaned, finding its way into the car. An ordinary night.

Then it happened. Off to the left, a globe of yellow fire burst out of the darkness and shot across the sky, trailing behind it a swath of white light longer and wider than any banner I had ever seen. Before I could exhale, the globe exploded, scattering fiery pieces of itself in a perfect widening circle. Then all was darkness.

For a second I sat, frozen. Next, I heard myself shouting, “I saw one! I saw one!”  No matter if others never came.

But they did, arcing across the sky like nothing I had ever imagined, huge ribbons of white light flung through the darkness, streaming behind globes brilliant as head lights. Like gigantic fireworks, they erupted into golden chrysanthemums, illuminating ghostly fences undulating across miles of range land, the dirt road slicing away to a thread. All of them streaking and exploding in eerie silence, no sound carried across the vast void through which they traveled.

As they leapt by the hundreds to their grand finale, I experienced a strange sense of myself perched on the outer skin of my home planet journeying with them through time and space. For the briefest moment, I knew I was part of that incredible beauty and power, an immense, timeless vitality beyond anything I had ever believed was missing from my own life.

I stopped worrying about losing my way en route to California, falling off the edge of the earth. And I went back to my cozy room with its fireplace and patchwork quilt and slept dreamlessly all night.

Image Credit: NASA

By Jill Irwin


We sit circled around a beach fire, faces lit by the waning flames, entranced by the rhythms of our percussion jam session.  Overhead zillions of stars shine brilliantly in the Baja sky through the diaphanous stretch of the Milky Way.  Five of us remain awake on this vernal equinox to celebrate the coming of spring; together we blend into one chaotic yet strangely harmonic convergence of sound that echoes up the arroyo behind us and drifts back out into the bay.

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Loreto sunriseWhen I decide that I simply must go sea kayaking in Baja for spring vacation, it’s so last minute that nobody can join me.  Well, my sister could, but when I say, “camping,” she asks “Where would I go to the bathroom?”  So I check out group trips, uneasy about vacationing with people I’ve never met. But when I talk to Gabriola Cycle & Kayak, they’re so friendly that I sign up.

As I wait to board the plane to Mexico, I eye my fellow passengers, picking out the kayakers with their chunky sport sandals and baggy shorts.  Once on board, I’m next to a fiftyish man wearing a T-shirt emblazoned with “Ouzo Power.” I’d already pegged him as a sport fisher, but he turns to me and says “Are you on the Gabriola kayak trip, too?”  Jim, who manages a family counseling center, turns out to be a kind man with an unexpected, sly sense of humor. I like him immediately.

As our plane descends into Loreto, on the Sea of Cortez, a stark, dramatic landscape lies below. Jagged peaks slice through the electric blue sky; a moon-shaped bay forms a perfect circle on small island not far offshore. An intricate pattern of ripples covers the azure sea surface.

Our first evening together, we camp at a hacienda run by expatriate Norte Americanos.  I assess our group—a twentysomething couple on their honeymoon, a couple in their thirties, three solo women, two solo men, and two male guides—and decide it’s a good gender balance. 

Morning arrives with sunshine and warm, dry air. As we load our camping gear into the boats on the beach, I snag a single kayak. But our amiable guide Jim says, “You’ll be switching between single and double kayaks to mix it up, so don’t get too attached to your boat.” Mary, an athletic blonde fortysomething who looks great in a bikini, immediately leads the pack as she charges off paddling toward Isla Coronado, our first destination.  Even though I’m a veteran kayaker, she intimidates me.

Our first campsite is on the circular bay I’d seen from the plane. Conversation doesn’t flow easily around the evening campfire—we’re still sizing each other up. I head to my tent early and read.

By the second day, as we begin to relax into the pace of rising early and paddling in the mornings, personalities are revealed.  I’m paired today with David, a former advertising executive, now a Zen Buddhist and volunteer for stroke victims.  He tells me his epiphany to step off the fast track came on a trip to Alaska when an eagle feather spoke to him.  “It was time to be of service to others.” He’s a cool guy.

Our guides are low key yet helpful.  During the four-hour crossing to Isla del Carmen, they paddle up to each of us occasionally to see how we’re doing. Their attitude helps the group settle into an easy camaraderie.  Guide John has brought a bag of percussion instruments for campfire entertainment, and Jim engages anybody willing in a game of dice.  (Next Page, click link below…)

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