Archive for France

More Adventures on the Road: Summer in Paris

Tuesday, August 30th, 2011

Part 7: Finé – Paris in the summer…

Enjoying the best of Paris

We arrived in Paris at the Gare de Lyon in the hustle and bustle of a Friday afternoon in a train station.  So many people coming and going!

We looked at the metro to get to our hotel and when we realized it was two different changes, we said, all right, one taxi coming up!  It was only our second taxi in the whole trip, so we thought we’d earned it.

Across the Seine and up into the Latin Quarter, past so many buildings I recognized and streets I knew.  That is my part of Paris, where I feel at home.

I hadn’t been to the hotel in 3 ½ years, but we found it just fine.  I’ve been going to this hotel for at least twelve years and it is exactly the same each time, clean, very simple and the best deal in Paris.  But certainly not fancy.

But we did have a TV in our room, so were able to watch the end of that day’s stage of the Tour de France, which has been getting more exciting each day, as it is closer and closer to the end.  We were pulling for the Australian and it turns out he won!  Now that I’m an Aussie, I felt proud.

We walked down the street and found a restaurant that I’d been to before, right near the Pantheon.  Chicken, frites, salad and a glass of wine with a very polite waiter—not always the case in Paris! Read More→

Part 6: Veyrier du Lac to Talloires, along the shore of the Lac d’Annecy…

A view of the lake from the village of Valloires

We said goodbye to the owners of our little hotel in Veyrier du Lac and caught the bus for the six kilometers around the lake to the village of Valloires, which has been called “the most romantic village in France”. The easy fifteen-minute bus trip, cost only 4.20 Euros for the two of us–so much greener and cheaper than that taxi the first day in Annecy, which cost twenty euros.

Landon’s friend met us at the bus and drove us to his hand built home overlooking the lake and the village. From our perch up on the hillside, we marveled at the breathtaking views, watching the lake change from blue to green to gray as rain clouds danced across the sky.

One of the advantages of staying with “locals” is discovering jewels that you could never find on your own. That was the case when the next day, our friend drove us up into the hills, on rough and windy roads that required four-wheel-drive, up past fat cows wearing giant cow bells, till we ended up at a tiny chalet and farm, for lunch.

The menu of the restaurant centered around the Reblochon and Tomes cheeses, specialties of the region. Normally in the summer, we would have eaten outside, looking out over the spectacular view to the lake below. On this rainy and misty day, we crowded into the tiny wood-beamed bar, cozy and warmed by a woodstove. Read More→

More Adventures on the Road: Biking the French Alps

Tuesday, August 23rd, 2011

Part 5: Cozy in our hotel in Veyrier du Lac and loving the biking…

The view of the lake from the water taxi

Our demi-pension option at the hotel, which includes two meals per day, is very reasonably priced—120 euros for two, including the room, and the food has been excellent. We’re getting very spoiled—walking downstairs to enjoy a four-course dinner on the terrace, as we watch the sun set over the lake.  After a few days, we feel like part of the family ourselves and have gotten to know the staff and some of the other guests.  I get a chance to practice my French, which is always a treat, though they do speak some English.

On the night of Bastille Day, July 14th, we enjoyed the “feux d’artifice” or fire works show above the lake from Annecy, right from our little balcony.

To get to Annecy, we can take a bus, ride our bikes or take a “water taxi”, which is the most fun option.  Last Friday, July 15, I took the water taxi over to Annecy for the day.  Landon was going on a four-hour grueling bike ride up a mountain. After my bike tour of the lake, I was going to the open market and the spa. Read More→

Part Four: One train, one subway, then the TGV train across France…

July 14, 2011

The TGV in Cote Azur


We left Normandy early on the 13th for the two-hour train trip back to Paris, then connected by metro to the TGV train to Annecy, in the Haute Savoie, almost to Switzerland.

The TGV or fast train, the marvel of the French National Railroads, makes the journey from Paris to Marseilles, about four hundred miles, in just three hours.

The lake at AnecyOur trip, from Paris to Annecy, with a few stops, just under three hundred miles, also took three hours. The drive would have taken at least six, along winding mountain roads.

We used our French Rail passes, bought from Rail Europe, where we can travel any four days in a month in France, any distance on those days. We got a discount by buying a “saver pass”because we are traveling together and the rail pass ends up being much more economical than buying individual tickets.

The train is also less expensive than driving, when you take into consideration the cost of renting a car, gas, toll roads and parking. And in addition to being economical and fun, taking the train is much more “green” than driving.

As we sped across France, we sat back in plush seats facing each other across a table, chatting, laughing and enjoying the beauty of the countryside as if unfolded in front of us.

We passed bright fields of sunflowers, turning toward the sun, and rural cottages with tidy gardens and laundry flapping in the breeze. We watched the sky change as rain clouds danced across it and majestic mountains came into view. Read More→

Part 3: From the English Countryside, across the channel from London to Paris and then on to Normandy

 July 10, 2011

Two English trains, one Eurostar train under the channel, one subway, and another train in France…

We left Henley and traveled back to London on Brit Rail, changing trains at Twyford, to Paddington Station. There, we hopped onto the underground to St. Pancras station to catch the Eurostar train to Paris.

For an American used to driving, I relished going from train, to subway to train. The journey from London to Paris on the Eurostar, the under the English Channel train, took two hours and 15 minutes, traveling at 186 miles per hour. Try doing that in a car! I didn’t even notice the time that we were under the channel–it went by fast and before we knew it we were looking out the train window at golden wheat fields and reading French road signs.

Visiting the American cemetery in Normandy, FranceOnce in Paris, we followed signs to the metro underground to connect to Gare St Lazare to catch the train to Normandy. My father spent four months during World War II in Normandy, and fifty years after the war, I found a French orphan Gilbert, who Dad tried to adopt and bring home to America in 1944.

I wrote about the experience of connecting with Gilbert in a story that appeared in Reader’s Digest, June 2009, called “Finding Gilbert”. Gilbert did become a part of my family, fifty years later, and we enjoyed the connection for fourteen years before he died in 2008.

This trip, Landon and I were traveling to Normandy to visit Gilbert’s widow Huguette for a few days. Read More→