A Quebec Cycling Trilogy: Part Three
By Rick Millikan
(This is the third and final installment of a three-part series on bike tours through Quebec, Canada by our resident independent bike tour expert, Rick Milliakan)
Travelers of all cycling abilities will find a “magnifique” trail eco-adventure just above Montreal in the Laurentian Valley. My wife Chris and I set out to explore a popular section of a rail to trail-way, enjoying stays at charming B&B’s along the way. The P’tite Tren du Nord ride begins for most in Saint Jerome, at kilometer 0.
At St Jerome’s old station we meet Christian in front of the caboose, his lineal parkway office. As director of maintenance, he assures us our venture is very do-able – as well as fun. “…As our 200-kilometer bikeway averages a mere 2% slope, it’s an easy breezy ride!” he grins. “In an hour or so you’ll be enjoying the linear park’s lower section…”
Leaving other cyclists relaxing at the station bistro or spinning northward, we depart for Labelle by shuttle, where our first stage begins. Above Iroquois Falls on Riviere Rouge stands a bronze statue of Labelle, one of Quebec’s enterprising priests. Father Labelle established the P’tite Tren du Nord in the 1800’s to carry wood to the port of Montreal. Inside Labelle’s train station museum hang photos showing early trainloads of logs and much later, grinning skiers as this region developed into a winter playground. Now cyclists exuberantly tour up and down this converted rail-bed trail, basking in dramatic scenery.
Removing racked rental bikes, our van disappears, delivering baggage to our first B&B. Carrying only bottles of cold water and cameras, we beeline southward through forests of white-barked birch, long-needled bull pines, stately maples and tall firs.
As the countryside opens into plush green pastures dotted with yellow buttercups, I spot some wooly critters. I’d love to take a pastoral photo, but a huge shaggy white sheepdog springs forward, woofing…and his sheepish flock flees. Next, when I see some udderly beautiful brown cows grazing on grassy knolls, I whip out my camera mooing, “Please stay!” Not hot to be shot, they trot. Finally, a brave Bambi stares at us, poses for a few pictures then bounds into the bush.
I pedal and ponder during this peaceful commune with nature, wondering about those early Iroquois who taught the first Europeans how to cultivate corn, squash, beans and generally survive in their new world. Just after French missionaries brought them Christ and French traders exchanged trinkets for furs, the Iroquois vanished.
Signs declaring Les Jardins de L’Achillee Millefeuille and Cyclists Welcome draw us into a rustic B&B along the trail. The smiling owner emerges, proudly telling us about her piece of Eden. A silvery Buddha statue sits above her flourishing organic garden. Resuming our pedal, we pass its campground complete with teepees. I wonder…
Rolling our suitcases smoothly past neighborhood bistros to the heritage chateau-style train station, we board Via Rail for a scenic two-hour ride following three glorious days exploring historic Quebec City. We’re now off to investigate Montreal and new bicycle adventures. 
Our first Gallic frolic involves mounting rental bikes and joining the multitudes of local cyclists. We soon cross the Charles River on a paved bikeway and slice neatly through city rail yards. Nearby lies Domaine De Maizerets, a historic park. We amble through its natural wilderness, sniff around its large botanical gardens and proceed cycling northeast on Corridor du Littoral along the St. Lawrence River. Cool breezes caress our efforts as we merrily meander between long swaths of lush grass curving into tunnels under busy roadways. Silvery church spires soar above distant green hills. Spandex clad racers pass us, whizzing off to Baie de Beauport, most likely to take a dip off its sandy beach.