Archive for Canada

Blown away by Bamfield, British Columbia

Sunday, October 23rd, 2011

By Cherie Thiessen

The Shores of Bamfield British ColumbiaArrival
The M.V. Frances Barkley nudges the pier on the west side of Bamfield. Its famous boardwalk twists along the inlet, cottages perch alongside, docks sprout into the waterway. The red and white buildings of the Coast Guard station alongside the dock gleam, and through my binoculars I can see the proprietor of the tiny boardwalk store hanging out a sign: closed for freight receiving.

M.V. Frances Barkley arrives Our binoculars have never been far from our eyes during this three-hour voyage up Alberni Inlet from Port Alberni to Barkley Sound. We’ve spotted eagles, inched by rainbows, chugged in and out of mists, rainstorms and occasional splatters of sun, and passed a wilderness that goes on and on. The passenger freighter’s crew of five is casual and friendly, and the captain, John Adams, who retired as captain from B.C. Ferries but just couldn’t stay home, has pointed  out interesting spots along the way – like Kildonan, for example. In 1914, it was a thriving cannery and 500 people lived there. Now it’s home to only a few summer cottagers and fewer still full timers, who gather at the dock. In the season, the Frances Barkley also stops at the old Sechart whaling station just outside the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve; it’s now a lodge catering to kayakers. The Norwegian built ship can carry 200 passengers and 100 tons of cargo, and it makes stops wherever it’s needed: fish farms, small settlements, and even float homes.

We’re met by Don Kapalka from the Imperial Eagle Lodge in his cherry red Ranger. There’s only room in the ATV for two plus luggage, so I get to ride along the steep and rocky track while the others head to the lodge along the boardwalk. Don fills me in en route. Read More→

Polar Bear Safari – The Bears of Churchill

Wednesday, September 29th, 2010

By Anne Gordon

At the “launch pad”, a brief bus ride from Churchill in northern Canada, tundra buggies, like over-sized moon vehicles, await the day’s explorers.
On arrival our driver warns us to stay seated while he checks the dark space beneath the pad for opportunistic polar bears. This elevated platform now used for boarding the buggies was named for the rockets that were launched from here in the 1950s to study the Northern Lights.

Pronounced safe …we disembark and board a massive vehicle, one of only 19 designed and built specifically for polar bear sightseers. Huge rubber wheels, almost five feet high, elevate the buggy cab sufficiently to avert a polar bear invasion. It’s cozy inside the 40-seat spacious interior.

Jarrett, our driver, reads us the Riot Act before we set out:

Don’t whistle at the bears. Nobody seems to have found the right tune anyway. The washroom is at the back of the buggy and you’ll notice the water is blue. If you don’t want a blue bum don’t use it while we’re in transit.” I understand his warning as soon as we hit the trail.

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Driving the Winter Alcan

Tuesday, July 13th, 2010

The Alcan in all its isolationBy Rob Ashford

British Columbia, the Klondike and Yukon territories can give a wonderful and awful feeling of isolation in winter. Long thin empty roads stretch endlessly into the distance. This place makes you feel vulnerable. On one memorable morning, in the early light, glowing in bright neon, was a sign outside the motel reading “minus 18 degrees C”. Looking around, it appeared through my sleepy vision that a cruel phantom had breathed a cloud of ice and snow throughout the landscape and I wondered to myself, “what the hell am I doing here!” At that time in my life, I had never before experienced such traumatic cold.

If ever a highway should be experienced, the Alcan is it. Built due to the threat of a Japanese invasion in 1942 by the US military, it runs for 1378 miles from Dawson Creek BC to Delta Junction AK. During the summer months, big rigs and heavy tourist traffic really churn the highway up, and road construction is constant. In winter, seeing the road is the issue.

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St. John is located on the Bay of Fundy.  It is the largest city in New Brunswick and is known for its reversing falls. This series of rapids and whirlpools are overcome by the high tides of the Bay of Fundy. At low tide the falls are normal. This did not stop the jet boat from taking passengers through the rapids for a guaranteed soaking. The twenty minute ride has many of the thrills of riding down the Colorado at a fraction of the cost.

Go to the main section of town. The centerpiece is the Market Square, with its indoor market: fresh produce, meats, souvenirs, etc. The market was particularly crowded because the cruise ship Serenade of the Sea was docked in the harbor. You could tell the cruise passengers. All of the women carried single red roses. From there travel the interior pedway through the Brunswick Square shopping mall to the visitor’s center, where you can get valuable information about walking tours of the city.

Walk out to Loyalist Plaza, where thousands of Colonial non-revolutionaries from the Middle Atlantic Colonies arrived only to live in tents and makeshift dwellings until better accommodations could be found. On the square is the Balfour Store, a general store from the 1800s brought intact from the country and then restocked as a general store. One of the items they had was “Surprise Soap”. In every eighth bar was a coin. This was a way for the youngsters to get to wash themselves. Women, however, used their hat pins poking at the soap to find the coin.

Walk along Prince William Street, once the hub of financial and governmental activity. You pass by the former home of Benedict Arnold. He was as well liked in St. John as he was in the Colonies. The townspeople burnt his home to the ground, because they did not like his arrogant attitude. Once a jerk, always a jerk.

Drive to Fort Howe and the reconstructed Blockhouse, which offers a beautiful view of St. John and the harbor.  A volunteer guide is usually there to answer your questions.

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John Pelley is a Geriatric Gypsy. He is retired from the rat race of working. He is a full-time RVer, who ran away from home. He began our travels on the East Coast and, like the migrating birds, seek the warmth of the seasons He has discovered volunteering with the National Park System. He has a CD he has recorded of Native American flute music., A Day with Kokopelli. For pictures, links, and more information visit http://www.jmpelley.org.

Article Source:http://www.articlesbase.com/destinations-articles/st-john-new-brunswick-home-of-the-reversing-waterfalls-956216.html

Historic Fort William – A Trip Back in Time

Thursday, July 2nd, 2009

Historic Fort William near present day Thunder BayThe Northwest Fur Company established historic Fort William in present day Thunder Bay, Ontario on the Kaministiquia River in 1803 as its interior headquarters and distribution center.  The company’s headquarters were originally in Grand Portage, Minnesota, forty miles Southwest.  The company moved because it was an English company doing business on United States soil.  The US government wanted them to pay taxes on the fur they were exporting to Europe.

The predominate fur being traded was the beaver, which was used to make hats for the gentry in every major city in Europe.  The beaver had been eradicated in Europe, but were plentiful in North America, especially in Northern Canada.  The Northwest Company’s largest competitor was The Hudson Bay Company.   They had the original British Royal Charter for trading fur since 1670, but were only a quarter of the size of the Northwest Company.  The company averaged over 90,000 beaver pelts per year for over ten years.  Simon McTavish and his partners became extremely wealthy.

In 1804 McTavish died and his nephew, William McGillivray, became the Chief Director of the company.  The distribution center took on his personality.  Whereas the Grand Portage location under the leadership McTavish consisted of approximately 17 Spartan buildings, the Kaministiquia River location boasted 42 various buildings.  Some of the buildings are painted white. They even had a fire engine in case of a dreaded fire.  This was a showcase for the entire world to see.

The original site was near the mouth of the Kaministiquia River and Lake Superior.  That is not longer there and is a switching yard for Canadian National Railroad.  Today a reproduction of the depot sits two-miles up river from the original site.

Prepare to spend a day visiting the site.  Guides in period clothing will take you around to the different buildings.  They use first person interpretation and represent different characters that were there in 1815.  Six years later, the company would be destroyed by The Hudson Bay Company and would merge with them in a hostile takeover.

Fort William Historic Park is a living history site.  Tradesmen, such as carpenters, canoe builders, black and tinsmiths, bakers, coopers, tailors, gunsmiths, etc., demonstrate their skills.  Visitors are invited to participate in their work, using the period tools of their trades.

Outside the walls is a working farm with Percheron horses, cattle, oxen, sheep, chickens and other farm animals.  Also outside is a replica of an Ojibwe village with people to help the visitor understand the culture of the Ojibwe Nation.

Back inside the stockade are a doctor’s residence, operating room and apothecary. A sea captain’s house, and various living quarters for the partners, clerks and tradesmen.  Not to be missed is the trading post where the Natives would bring furs, wild rice, maple sugar, and other commodities to be traded for the European goods: metal products, textiles, and other conveniences.  Go into the fur building and be overwhelmed by the variety and vastness of their fur collection.  Finally on the places to see is the Great Hall or mess hall.   This sits as the focal point of the depot.  Here meals were served to the gentlemen and business was conducted for the company.

Visiting Historic Fort Williams is quite an eye-opening experience.  Very few American know about what happened in Canada when their country was just a youth.  The story of the Northwest Fur Company mirrors business even today.  Only the names, commodities and locations have changed.

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John Pelley is a Geriatric Gypsy. He is retired from the rat race of working. He is a full-time RVer, who ran away from home. He began our travels on the East Coast and, like the migrating birds, seek the warmth of the seasons He has discovered volunteering with the National Park System. He has a CD he has recorded of Native American flute music., A Day with Kokopelli. For pictures, links, and more information visit http://www.jmpelley.org.

Article Source:http://www.articlesbase.com/destinations-articles/historic-fort-williama-trip-back-in-time-933589.html

Image credet: istargazer, courtesy flickr