Archive for Alaska

Juneau: Alaska’s Frontier City

Tuesday, December 20th, 2011

Photographs by Linda Popovich

tourist shops in downtown juneau

Locked between mountains and the Gastineau Channel, Juneau is a great portal for visitors to be introduced to the rugged and beautiful “last frontier” state of Alaska. With a population of 31,000, Juneau is a cross between a city, a frontier town, a cruise ship destination, and small town America, and you will experience all of these within minutes of each other here.

Juneau’s cornucopia of natural splendor is really its stock-in-trade. You’re never far from an awe-inspiring glacier, rivers teeming with thousands of spawning salmon, or mammoth humpback whales breaching violently from the ocean. Or you can paddle across peaceful lakes, and ride a tramway up a steep mountain for a spectacular view of lush rain forest and shimmering fjords.

Juneau’s man-made attractions also pack some serious weight for their punch; sampling delectable amber ales at a renowned brewery, panning for gold on a river which hard bitten prospectors worked over a century earlier, walking through a historic gold mine, and wandering through some interesting museums are all part of the Juneau experience. And watching the locals who emerge after the tidal wave of cruise passengers has receded back into their luxury liners is always instructive.

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Photographs by Linda Popovich

Haines lies at the base of the fog shrouded takshanuk and chilkat mountains

The small town of Haines nestles peacefully overlooking the remote shores of Alaska’s pristine, 90-mile Lynn Canal—the longest Fjord in America. Haines lies at the base of the fog shrouded Takshanuk and Chilkat Mountains, glistening glaciers crawling down their steep black granite canyons. A belt of foothills covered in Pacific Northwest evergreens is all that separates the town from these towering massifs.

Haines is a quiet little harbor town of 2,400 souls. They’re mostly flannel-shirted fishermen, loggers, artists, retirees, and a sprinkle of gold miners, all sharing two things in common. They love the spectacular natural vista of fjord, forest, and mountain that greets them each morning when they open their curtains, and they have no desire to live the city life anymore. They’re here to get away from it all. Some might call them reclusive, and they’d be proud of this.

There’s no rush hour traffic in this isolated village and the residents all know each other, perhaps too well. But they’re genuine and friendly and look you in the face when they talk to you. Their hands are calloused hands from hours of hauling in heavy gillnets laden with struggling salmon, or working outdoors. Bears scavenge through garbage cans in back yards, and the occasional moose strolls through the streets. Visiting Haines is like time traveling back to the 1950’s, and, sadly, it’s not something you’re likely to see in the lower 48 anymore—it’s a remnant of America that has been lost to iPhones, MTV and urban sprawls.

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Driving the Winter Alcan

Tuesday, July 13th, 2010

The Alcan in all its isolationBy Rob Ashford

British Columbia, the Klondike and Yukon territories can give a wonderful and awful feeling of isolation in winter. Long thin empty roads stretch endlessly into the distance. This place makes you feel vulnerable. On one memorable morning, in the early light, glowing in bright neon, was a sign outside the motel reading “minus 18 degrees C”. Looking around, it appeared through my sleepy vision that a cruel phantom had breathed a cloud of ice and snow throughout the landscape and I wondered to myself, “what the hell am I doing here!” At that time in my life, I had never before experienced such traumatic cold.

If ever a highway should be experienced, the Alcan is it. Built due to the threat of a Japanese invasion in 1942 by the US military, it runs for 1378 miles from Dawson Creek BC to Delta Junction AK. During the summer months, big rigs and heavy tourist traffic really churn the highway up, and road construction is constant. In winter, seeing the road is the issue.

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