Back Roads of Provence: Part 3 – St. Tropez and Sainte Maxime

Part 3 in the series, Backroads of Provence
By Diane Covington

After our refreshing stay at Chateau de Berne, we followed the winding road down toward the coast, past vineyards and pine trees, with dramatic views around every bend.

We stopped at Thoronet Abbey a well-preserved 11th century abbey set in a pine forest. The acoustics in the chapel are said to be the second best in the world and our guide sang some sweet notes for us to experience the music echoing off the high walls.

Then on to Saint Tropez, and a stop at the renowned Chateau de la Messardière Hotel for lunch.  As we sipped local chilled rose wine with our sumptuous courses, we admired the view of the Bay of Saint Tropez sparkling through the pines and gardens of their extensive grounds (messardiere.com).

Though Saint Tropez is now famous for all the celebrities who frequent it, many with giant yachts, it is still a quaint fishing village at heart.  After lunch, we wandered along the colorful alleyways, appreciating the peace of ‘off season’ September, yet basking in the warm sun reminiscent of summer.

The distance from Saint Tropez to Sainte Maxime, on the other side of the bay, is short, but in summer can take an hour or more.  In September, luckily, it was shorter than that, but when we spotted our hotel, Le Beauvallon, sitting atop a knoll with a wide lawn sloping down to the sea, we were excited to call it our next home.

This ‘Belle Époque’ Hotel, built in 1914, has the elegance and grace of those earlier days, contrasted with a glamorous up-to-date décor.  Over 15 acres of landscaped gardens create a sense of space and tranquility.

From the balcony of our luxurious room, we breathed in the fresh sea air and watched sailboats gliding by, as the sky turned pink behind the clouds with the setting sun.  Later, the lights of Saint Tropez looked like jewels in a treasure chest across the bay.

The romantic dining room, with damask linens and candlelight complemented the Mediterranean/International menu and fine local wines.

Breakfast on the terrace the next morning, a swim in the pool and a stroll along the sand at the beach club, followed by some relaxation under an umbrella on a chaise lounge-this is the life!  And in the late September, the sea is still warm enough for a refreshing plunge.

This is the kind of hotel where you want to settle in and stay for weeks.  But even our short stay refreshed mind, body and spirit, making us ready for the next adventure just around the bend in Provence.

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For more information about this area of ‘Undiscovered Provence’, check out these websites:
www.tourismevar.com
www.var-prestige.com